Korean Christmas Surgery

What started as a regular weekend of going out with friends while hosting another couch surfer quickly turned into an early and unanticipated Christmas present. Saturday I noticed a small red spot on my leg, which for most is nothing out of the ordinary. Myself however am far from ordinary and having had more than ten STAPH infections in the past six years, I suspected this was yet another so I commenced my pre-prescribed antibiotics regiment. This particular infection however grew virulently out of control in a 24 hour period, growing to the size of a grapefruit on the back of my leg and making walking an unbearably painful task.

Upon noticing the severity of the infection I explained to my best friends and support system in Korea how to go about cutting it open to drain, as it was in too awkward a location to do myself. The idea was simple and my friends were prepared to make an incision in my leg to relieve the pressure of the fluid within. Due to the depth and speed of the infection however a last minute decision was made and I reluctantly took the subway and limped to the nearest hospitals around 8PM Sunday.

I checked in by leaving my identification card at the desk and proceeded to an ER bed, surrounded by screaming babies and crying families, which is always the worst part about being in a hospital. It's not about the pain that you are in but that of watching others in physical and emotional pain. I waited on the bed until an English speaking doctor could see me and show her the infection and explain what it was, unfortunately it went in one ear and out the other.

I underwent standard blood and urine tests as the doctor consulted with other doctors returning one by one with them, as each new doctor took a picture on their phone. They told me I needed a chest x-ray and I disagreed but they insisted it was hospital policy for all patients to receive a chest x-ray.

After the x-ray I was rolled on a gurney to the back of the hospital next to a teenage boy who for no point in my time in the hospital stopped screaming and crying. As I lay in the bed, now connected to an IV, I counted the dots of dried blood splatter on the ceiling above me pondering possibilities of how they got up there. In the meantime doctor after doctor came up to see the infection and take a picture, and each time I explained that all I needed them to do was to cut it open and drain it.

After 2 hours of this repeated cycle I began to lose my patience and was about to pull out my IV when an attractive young female doctor came over to me and I explained everything to her as a team of surgeons descended upon me. They decided to take an unnecessary leg x-ray and then left me in the bed for another hour as the team discussed a plan in Korean, clearly still not understanding what needed to be done.

With an unknown painkiller being fed through my IV and filled with frustration was fighting the medicine to stay awake. One of the doctors approached me and asked if they could take an MRI to see where it needed to be cut. I unconsciously agreed and signed the paper as contrast dye began circulating throughout my body. Struggling to stay awake I asked them if my insurance would cover the MRI.

Upon receiving the answer of a $500 cost I instantly gained consciousness in a fit of rage. I jumped from the bed and said HELL NO, screaming and yelling at them to stop the dye and that if they did not perform the surgery immediately as I instructed I would rip out both IV's and walk to another hospital. With the threat of violence the team of surgeons reluctantly rolled me to the operating room.

With a body pencil I drew a line where I wanted them to cut. They brought in anesthesia and told me I would be asleep for roughly fifteen minutes but I demanded to be awake in order to oversee the procedure. The three young surgeons, now terribly afraid, photographed my leg and reluctantly prepared for surgery. They covered the wound with blood splatter sheets and turned on the light as I arched forward lying on my stomach to watch behind me through the mirror they provided upon my request. Alcohol swab, iodine swab and four injections of lidocaine and we were ready.

I gave some last minute encouragement to the currently petrified young doctor as he hesitantly picked up the scalpel and nervously moved into position. With the first small incision the wound erupted like a bloody puss filled Vesuvius. The assistants panicked and grabbed towels to begin wiping away the fluids as they ran down my leg like a slow flowing river.

Once cleaned and cleared the surgeon continued cutting down the line I had drawn straight through the skin and then clamped it open. He then ordered a surgical vacuum to be brought to the room as he continued cutting into the muscle towards the bone breaking into more pustules along the way. He then internally probed up and down to drain but both of these cuts sent a surge of pain throughout my body and I stopped watching through the mirror and buried my face into the pillow.

Luckily I looked up in time to see the assistant handing stitching thread and a needle to the surgeon. I yelled as loud as my weak body could to stop! With my leg tied down and clamped open bleeding, I had to explain to them that the wound cannot be closed and needed to stay open to continue draining the infection throughout the week.

A two minute debate began, and I believe that an angry, drugged and bleeding foreigner might be a Koreans worst nightmare. I had to explain to the surgeon how to slowly fold in packing gauze back and forth into the now gaping empty hole in my leg. It took nearly a meter of gauze to completely fill the hole before the clamps were removed and the job was done.

I congratulated and thanked the team of doctors as they rolled me back to the ER with a smile on my face. A doctor then entered with a cart of what appeared to be miniature empty beer bottles. The cute doctor with whom helped me earlier injected yet another needle into my arm and my blood began pouring into bottle after bottle until they all were full for reasons unknown.

Confused by the situation and now lacking blood with two IVs pumping my body with fluids, antibiotics and painkillers my surgeon returned with paperwork for hospital admission for three days in which time the blood tests and cultures could be analyzed. Quickly I lashed out and said I knew it was Staphyloccocus aureus and that I wanted to go home now. He walked away embarrassed and sent the next doctor to explain that I needed to stay. Again I denied him.

This process was repeated by two more doctors and I once again in a near unconscious state yelled at the fourth doctor that I am not staying and that I would rip out my IVs if they did not take them out. I gladly signed release papers and papers labeled 'Refusal for aftercare'. My cute dream doctor once again returned to remove the IVs as I apologized to her for being such an asshole but knew what was best for my body.

At 1am I was given antibiotics and painkillers, paid the exuberant hospital bill and slowly limped out of the ER doors and down the road to find a late night taxi home. With all the stress of the night I quickly Skyped my parents to inform them I was alright, and thankfully was able to sleep in my own bed until work the next morning. The experience although extremely trying, gave me great insight into the health care system of yet another country; as well as another outlandish story.

Korean Kings of the Past

After nearly 20 months of living, working and traveling around Korea, the major cities seem very cut and paste, with an endless craving to achieve a westernized look. The city of Gyeongju on the eastern coast of the peninsula however, has a very different atmosphere. Lacking in high rise buildings and the speed of most Korean cities, Gyeongju stands true after the trials of time, war and industrialization.

My trip began in the early morning hours of a cold winter day walking through frost covered fields. The tranquility of slowly passing through the country side with nothing but the bag on my back, was in itself an awe inspiring moment. I arrived at Bunhwangsa temple as the sun was breaking into the dark sky and crisp morning air. The site, to a casual onlooker feels lack luster, but it provided me with a sense of solitary peace.

As I continued on in the morning light the frost covering the farm fields began to recede as students dressed in their school uniforms emerged onto the empty country road, walking in the same aimless direction as myself. Upon arrival at the Anapji Pond the gates were only just opening and I found myself as the only individual seeking entry.

Having the park to myself I truly gained an appreciation for what the ancient Silla Dynasty was able to accomplish. The beautiful man-made ponds surrounded by what once was once an eccentric series of lavish, nearly 1400 year old temples, still remained in their grandeur. The adjacent Gyeongju National Museum, although overly sized for it's limited contents, did give excellent insight to Korea's past, packed with a wealth of historical knowledge.

The next stop several km away was the famed Cheomseongdae Observatory. Although it appeared to be nothing more than a windmill tower without fan blades, this building holds its importance in being the oldest observatory in East Asia. A disappointment to trek it for just a quick glance, it's historic significance is certainly something to ponder. In the minds of Koreans who ever so hard look for things that can be uniquely claimed as theirs, this site holds testament to their accomplishments.

I continued on for about 20 km visiting tomb after tomb of kings and mighty generals past. Although from the outside all the tombs look like miniscule hills build for winter sledding, inside the hold a plethora of wealth and ancient secrets similar to the famed pyramids of Egypt.

Although Gyeongju by no means shows up on one's top list      of travel destinations, it is certainly in my opinion the most historically rich place in Korea. It is well worth a visit while in the region and certainly a place I will frequent in the months to come due to its proximity to Daegu. It justifiably is an obscure location packed with UNESCO sites and ancient treasures, that should be observed and respected not just by Korean nationals who at times seem extreme, but by all those attempting to experience and understand the culture that is Korea.

Gayasan National Park

The occasional Saturday off of work when the weather is nice, is cause for celebration and last minute planning. This particular weekend led to an unexpected bus ride to Gayasan National Park with a group of friends representing Russia, Slovakia, and the USA. Only a bit more than an hour away from home led us to yet another one of Korea’s cherished national parks.

With fall leaves still exploding with color, Gayasan National Park made an excellent escape from the city. The hike from the bus terminal through the park passed a deep winding creek and sloping valleys of vibrantly colored trees. Although not an intensive hike it was a very peaceful walk towards the temple in a wilderness reminiscent of home, but rarely seen amongst the hustle and bustle of the city life in Daegu.

The trail led us to Haeinsa Temple, one of the most infamous temples in South Korea for its size and beauty nestled deep in a pristine valley. The temple is home to 800 year old Sutras permanently written on wooden scrolls. Located atop a small hill in the center of the valley this temple has a sense of pure tranquility and isolation. It is designed with the same copy and paste method as all of the temples in Korea yet each one shares the sense of peace that Buddhism instills.

No perfect day could end without a proper picnic with friends from abroad. This sense of satisfaction was accompanied by the innocence of children making a pile of leafs. Lacking all maturity I had to join the children in making the pile and then jumping in the pile. Having a foreigner in the midst of their entertainment not only made their day but also my own. They certainly enjoyed being able to bury an American in leafs and having a leaf fight.

Although the parents were not so keen on their children getting dirt and leafs on themselves, the innocence of youth is the strongest force and breaks all cultural boundaries. It made for the perfect end to a perfect day where the impeding stresses of real life can be forgotten. It is times like these that make one truly appreciate the friends you have, the place you are and the life you live.   

Bulguksa

Bulguksa is undoubtedly the most famous and frequently visited of the countless sites within Gyeongju’s city limits, located nearly 40 minutes away from the city center via bus. The site serves as one of the primary centers of the Jogye Order of Buddhism in Korea. As a result of its historical importance and beauty, the site is swamped with daily tourists viewing the temple grounds and ancient pagodas.

The temple is quite impressive in terms of its size and history, having been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times since its conception circa 528AD. However, the swarms of people leave it feeling less like a place of solitude and worship but rather more like an amusement park. With the sale of balloons, children’s toys, corndogs and more on the walk in, coupled with the presence of tour buses crowding the parking lot, expectations diminish upon arrival.

In addition to Bulguksa, a short one hour hike up Mt. Tohamsan leads to one of the most famous sites in all of Korea, the Seokguram artificial Grotto. Built nearly 1300 years ago into the peak of the mountain, the focal point of the grotto is a 3.5m granite Buddha sitting on a lotus flower signifying Nirvana. Visitors line up outside the small temple and once inside get a glimpse at the grotto from behind a protective glass shield; photography prohibited

Although both Bulguksa and Seokguram Grotto have been infiltrated by hoards of Korean tourists the two sites do share some common qualities. These qualities include their antiquity and uniqueness among Korean history. It is often impossible to have world wonders to yourself, therefore is imperative to remove oneself from the mindset of the masses and to appreciate sites for their true value.

            

Palgongsan

In the lower outskirts of Korea’s, Taebaek Mountain Range rests the modest Palgong-san Provincial Park. Certainly in terms of scale and being a natural spectacle, the park is lacking. However, showcasing Palgong Mountain at a mere 1192m, and dotted with Buddhist temples and statues, it creates a perfect backyard playground for Daegu.

The main trail up to Dongbong peak is completely flooded with daily hikers, however the easy going trail makes for a great first trip to the park. The fall foliage, which I always took for granted at home, creates excellent vistas throughout the hike. From most vantage points the brightly colored sloping valley’s engulfing Daegu make for beautiful scenery.

On the other side of the park and an entirely separate trip in itself, is the home of the infamous Gatbawi Buddha. The short 2km hike to the top of the mountain in the early morning hours, walking to the beating sound of drums, makes for an excellent start to any day, displacing oneself from the real world.  Countless others make the same hike everyday to the peak in order to pay homage and pray to the large stone Buddha carved into the mountains peak.

The park offers countless options for trails, some for the most casual of hikers, while others for those without time restraints to get off the more beaten path. Living so close, I have become a frequent visitor of the park to escape the city and find a sense of peace. It’s not easy finding a better way to start one’s day then a predawn hike encompassed in pure tranquility and serenity.

Ulsanbawi

Uslanbawi is a landmark created not only by its sheer beauty but also its mythical creation in Korean history. As far as legend goes, Ulsanbawi was the representative from the port city of Ulsan, my former home. He was sent to a meeting of the Korean peninsula however when he arrived to the North the meeting was over he began an infamous walk of shame home. On his way back he fell asleep and when he awoke he thought it was so beautiful he decided to stay forever.

Back to reality however, the first stop on the path up the mountain is a tranquil Buddhist temple nestled in the mountains along the river. It is the perfect place to relax and drink some fresh spring water before the trek to the heights of the mountain. Along the lower level trails are several stopping points with some very eager and determined women trying to fill hikers up on bibimbap.

Although there is no moment of solitude on this well trodden path, it has everything required for being in a state of pure tranquility. With trickling streams and hidden Buddhist temples deep in the forest, the hike to the base of the mountain leaves one with a sense of worldly belonging.

At the last base up the mountain is a beautiful Buddhist temple with the Ulsanbawi granite cliffs escalating in the background. As the clouds roll through, visibility is limited instilling a sense of curiousity as to what awaits at the top. After an additional hour hike the vegetation clears as the mountain begins to become completely vertical, leaving a perfect view into the valley below.  

One is then faced with a vertically challenging ascent up an old rickety set of stairs. With over 800 steps to the top, anyone with a phobia of heights is truly tested as inclining steps are large enough only for a small child. With nerves rattling the clouds are surpassed and the summit is reached leaving one with a sense of accomplishment.

The view from the top of Ulsanbawi is nothing short of breathtaking. After a day of hiking through the misty clouds, being above them finally gives picturesque views up and down the entire Taebaek mountain range. At this point the moment comes where one can have a 360 degree look around and truly appreciate things and feel a brief moment of accomplishment.

Seoraksan National Park!

Many cultures have an annual celebration of the autumn harvest, like the United State’s Thanksgiving. In Korea we have Chuseok, a three day long celebration where the people return to their ancestral home towns to visit family and eat traditional foods and drink rice wine. For foreign English teachers however it is a much needed vacation and chance to explore. This year I decided to visit the famed Seoraksan National Park in Northeast, Korea.

After an all night party in Seoul with my friends from Daegu, I arrived bright and early to the small coastal fishing village of Sokcho.  On the local bus to the park entrance, other foreigners, deceived by my backpack covered in world flags, were asking me for information about the park. The truth was I had no idea where I was going or what I was doing.

 The entrance to the park is home to an impressive bronze statue of Buddha, where locals come to pay homage and tourists snap their first photos. Knowing nothing about the park I began to follow the masses towards the first trail where a man pushing his baby in a carriage pointed me in a direction where the masses were not headed, to climb to the highest and most beautiful point in the mountain range.

Once again I proved that the world is smaller than it seems as the first person I ran into on the trail was a fellow Western New Yorker from Buffalo and his mate from Maryland. Slightly hung over the three of us began our ascent to unknown locations.

The hike towards Daechongbong Peak at 1,708m, and the third highest point in Korea proved to be quite difficult after an all nighter in Seoul; however the spectacular vistas around every bend was reason enough to keep pushing on. It also helped that the spire peaks of the Taebaek Mountain range are lost in a halo of clouds, leaving one with a sense of mysticism in the mountains.

The winding trail crossed numerous bridges through deep ravines carved out by powerful mountain streams. The wildlife was a bit lacking with only a few spotting of chipmunks, which the Koreans stop to take pictures of, and a few interesting and vibrant frogs. Regardless of the lack of excitement, the sheer beauty of the granite cliff faces, deep forests, and flowing streams are enough to motivate anyone to go further and higher.

As we reached the summit of an adjacent mountain the local backpackers warned us to turn back. The day was turning to night and we were given ample warning that if we continued we would be stuck on the mountain with no shelter in the cold, and to turn back. After about 30 minutes of debate we made the undesirable but responsible decision to turn back and so we began the arduous hike back to base.

Although an unsuccessful attempt to summit the highest peak, the day was a success. New friends were made, personal physical limits were exceeded after a night of partying and one of the wonders of the world was seen! Seoraksan is a beautiful mountain range that I undoubtedly will return to again!