Geumjeong Fortress Trail to Beomeo-sa

From Nummun, the South Gate, of the Geumjeong Fortress wall begins a calming 8.8 km hike to Bukmun, the North Gate in the mountains engulfing Busan. In the early morning hours, the hike began on a paved trail with few people moving about in a peaceable silence. Upon arrival to the East Gate, Jeff and I were invited in the ranger post by the park ranger and his brother for some coffee. We sat in the shack as they tried to teach us Korean and Mandarin along with some interesting conversation. Eventually we had to excuse ourselves from their hospitality and continue on with the map and directions they provided.

The trail left the main road and we began weaving uphill through the forest alongside a trail parallel to the old stone fortress wall with blooming spring flowers flooding the hills. With limited trail signs we appeared as total tourists looking at our map, so an older Korean man hiking as well told us to follow him. He served as an excellent guide explaining to us the history of the fortress and temples as well as pointing out plants and flowers, teaching us their Korean names.

Upon arriving to the mountain ridge rolling hills of golden grass swayed in the wind and in the distance valleys full of communist style block buildings with the Sea of Japan in the distance on either side made a seemingly perfect backdrop.  The stone wall could be seen from the top of Mount Wonhyobong slithered through the valleys like a serpent all to the peak of Mount Euisangbong, resembling a much smaller but still aesthetic, Great Wall of China.

From the North Gate on the other side of Mount Wonhyobong began a winding stone trail down the north side of the mountain towards Beomeo-sa Temple; or the ‘Heavenly fish temple.’ The volume of hikers in their brightly shining and only for show hiking gear increased exponentially. Their backpacks were clinging with the sound of soju bottles, a typical hiking sound in Korea.

Even with the large crowds of people the sound of trickling streams down the rocks coupled with the budding spring trees created a brilliant sensation.

Walking through the village outside of Beomeo-sa we once again found ourselves as the only tourists with a few silent monks moving about from temple to temple. Beomeo-sa was an impressively large complex of over 27 separate buildings with a history dating back over 1335 years ago. Although it was burned down several times through the centuries, it still invokes a sense of wonder, especially looking at the relatively short history of the USA.

Although the temple was lacking in as much grandeur and beauty as other temples visited, it was still a worthwhile hike through the mountains to a place of pure serenity and historical value. Although South Korea might be a small country, even after two years living here there are still many new marvels that continue to be experienced inspiring new adventures.

Seokbulsa Temple

Not much compares with waking up long before the sun makes its daily trek across the sky than beginning an adventure on a rainy weekday. Aboard the first subway of the morning the few moving souls are in a zombie like state with nothing but the sound of the train dragging their lifeless bodies to their destinations. With the sun still not up, boarding a long distance bus also lacks any sign of life as everyone tried to catch up on an hours sleep. I myself could not help but gaze through the windows at the mountains veiled in fog appearing like shadowy giants in the predawn light.

Upon arrival, grumpy people began to move about as my body twitched with excitement. With two of my friends we began to walk across Pusan in the morning rain as the sun began to rise in the sky. Although dark and gloomy the trees blossoming with flowers and the first signs of life in waking city were truly an experience, as we walked to the cable car to bring us up the mountain.

Waiting for the cable car to begin operation the silence of the mountains with birds beginning to stir about is a feeling of pure tranquility. As the three of us were finally able to board the cable car we began our ascent and almost instantly all visibility was lost and we were engulfed in the low lying cloud cover. Eventually we emerged from the clouds and were given a breath-taking view of the city far below with its’ typical Korean communist style white block buildings almost like camouflage amongst the clouds.

When we got to the top we began going immediately through the muddy trails towards Seokbul-sa Temple. Being the only ones on the trail the peaceful hike to the South Gate of Geumjeong Fortress left us in conversational solitude. Winding around the mountains the clouds blocked all views but for seconds at a time would roll away leaving us with spectacular views of the granite mountains and valleys below.

The trail eventually began a steep downward course through the mud and slick rocks. Wild pheasants moved about as we slowly slid our way down the trail. It wasn’t long before we could hear the drums and chants of Buddhist prayers coming from the temple for us to follow. Through the clouds we emerged onto a path entering the opened and welcoming gates of the temple, with golden footprints of Buddha on each door.

As we walked through the gates we were still the only people in sight. The seemingly empty and cloud covered temple radiated an eerie yet soothing calmness at the same time. Turning up the stairs a most magical sight began to reveal itself little by little each step of the way.

 Within a miniscule canyon hidden behind the temple were massive stone grottos of figurines carved into the rocks on each side, standing about two stories tall each. On the central alter was a statue of a goddess standing eloquently in front of an overhanging rock with Buddha carved in over head. To each side was a set of stone steps rising up into the clouds with carvings moving up along the sides. The detail in which these were carved and there extraordinary placement was absolutely magnificent. It was a truly serene place that fills your heart with mysterious awe and sense of peace.

But Where Are The Cherries?

Anywhere that there is winter, there is surely to be an intrepid need to get out and exploring come spring! This was exactly the case for our last minute decision to take a train to Jinhae in South Korea’s southern coast, to partake in its infamous Cherry Blossom Festival which receives 2,000,000 visitors each year. Without a plan or a thought of hesitation we got on the train and commenced our trip.

Upon arrival the train slowly chugged along the track lined with tranquil white and pink blossoming trees on either side. Thousands of tourists were behind the trees snapping photos of the train as it came in like a bride down the aisle surrounded by flower girls. When this bridal procession ended we got off and simply followed the masses in the direction of never ending tents lining every road in the town center. With no plan, place to sleep, or any idea even where we were; we stopped in an ally lined with tents roasting black hogs for some of the best pork I have ever encountered.

As the sun set into the night sky, skylights waving through the air called our attention to a stadium where traditional drummers were performing on stage with such vigor and power the entire arena was filled with an indescribable ambiance of power surging through the stands. They were followed by a most peculiar performance from the Navy’s band playing the YMCA with obscure belly dancers doing the dance on stage, and the three of us were the only members of the audience joining in on the YMCA dance. At this point it was time to leave with no shame but smiles of childhood delight on our faces.

The night continued with live traditional Korean music concerts and dances occurring throughout the blossom filled city. Still with no place to sleep and the night growing cold we joined other friends and continued through the night doing park bench Karaoke in front of crowds of excited Koreans. In the early hours when the crowd died down we decided to go to a Jimjilbang to sleep for a few hours. After living in Korea nearly 2 years this was my first experience in a jimjilbang and I have been missing out. Spa by day and place to crash on the floor by night! Brilliant! A truly amazing experience, that has become a weekly habit.

The following morning with the luck that I have, yet again my shoes were stolen.  Without hesitation and the relentless need to travel we continued on through the day as I walked barefoot and we observed the true beauty of the cherry blossoms. We visited a cascading stream through the city surrounded blindingly with the natural hues of the blossoms. 

Back at the festival we climbed to the hill top tower overlooking the city and the shoreline. The coast was dotted with military vessels and the hills were overflowing with cherry blossoms. From above you could follow with your eyes the streams of white and blue topped tents lining every street below bustling with people. But from atop the hill it was a quiet, tranquil, an escape from winter and a warm welcome to spring!