TAIPEI

In the heart of the East China Sea, Taiwan and its’ capital city Taipei offers a blending of cultures including Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Philippine, Malaysian and others to create a vibrant and unique place. Taipei offers an endless selection of informative museums, impressive monuments, architectural wonders, hidden art districts, colorful night markets, peaceful temples, lush parks, lavish hotels and a vast array of other sights, sounds, smells, and tastes to invigorate even the most close-minded traveler.  

Towering over the center of the city is former tallest building in the world, Taipei 101. Overtaken by the Burj Khalifa in Dubai and just days ago by One World Trade Center in New York City, Tapei 101 is still a modern marvel and the gem in the heart of Taipei. It’s unique eight rising segments symbolize abundance, wealth and good fortune, certainly appropriate symbols of the city. The tower can be viewed from all areas of the city however the best is atop nearby Elephant Mountain giving a marvelous 360^O view of the city.

Across the city are numerous museums covering everything from indigenous cultures to dinosaurs and Chinese history. The 228 park presents an excellent National Museum of Science and Natural History and houses impressive collection of dinosaur bones and a contemporary display on global warming. The must-see Grand Palace Museum also offers a luxurious and spacious display of everything from an on lend exhibition from the Louvre to a walk back in time through Chinese history thousands of years ago.

The night life of Taipei is also one of epic proportions. The main attractions are the numerous night markets around the city, most infamous being the Shilin Night Market. The markets serve as vast outdoor shopping malls in tightly packed streets, lined with food vendors selling a wealth of international food from tacos to python soup served with whiskey shots of its blood, urine, semen, scales, saliva and guts. Delicious scents infiltrate the nights’ air as tourists, couples, and locals alike peruse the streets window shopping and snacking while listening to all varieties of international music from Celine Dion and Eminem to K-pop and Salsa blaring from each shop. Interspersed throughout the streets, endless carnival games are also incorporated into this lively scene offering activities for people of all ages.

Taipei is an expansive city with a vibrant culture and endless entertainment. It serves as a melting pot of Asian and global cultures packed with history yet with a façade of a modern city. It’s people are outgoing and open-minded giving rise to its spot on my top list of worldly cities and a place I most certainly seek to visit again.

Maokong Gondola

In the southern most region of Taipei is the infrequently visited yet fascinating Muzha region. With a proper guide, Yu Lee showed me around this spectacular hillside region that leaves the hustle and bustle of the city behind and offers the tranquil serenity of rural Taipei. The first stop on the tour was the well laid out Taipei Zoo, housing expansive beautiful gardens and a massive collection of animals from around the world. From lazy Asiatic bears to koalas lounging in tree tops this zoo has a lot to offer. I even got my first glimpse of a giant panda doing runway model walks for on lookers.

The gondola, although simply a mode of transport for people like Yu who are fortunate enough to be residents in this spectacular place, proved to be a memorizing experience for me. Riding up the mountain in a swinging gondola bound for Maokong at the top, provided views of the lush misty mountains dotted by temples, and was simply breathtaking. At the top we stopped for some amazing food including fried rice, stinky tofu, and gelatinous duck blood as the midday rains commenced.

Maokongs’ lush green rolling hills also lay home to the tea district of Taipei. Quaint little tea shops lay hidden in the rolling hills of an abundance of various tea plants, releasing tantalizing aromas and offering stunning views. The silence of the region offers a perfect place to relax and inspires intellectual conversation.

Further down the mountain nestled in the cliffs is the Zhinan Temple and its’ surrounding palaces giving a grand overview into the valley from its stone steps. The temple is extremely unique in its’ indoor design with night stars on the ceiling, fluffy clouds projecting from the walls to meet the night sky, and lined with hundreds of gold statues of individuals that bring luck to people born in every month of every year. One of the surrounding palaces offers locals and travelers alike a place to stop for coffee and tea with delicious side snacks including garlic fried lima beans all for free.  It made for perfect place to wind down and end a magnificent day.

228

History can be learned through textbooks that are often times bias, however history is culture, and with culture being an overall performance of life it can best be learned while living somewhere. This was the case for Taiwan a country I knew little about yet gained a plethora of knowledge about in only a short stay. 228 Peace Park was the perfect place for such a journey through time.

Outside the 228 museum were transparent photos of hundreds of slain individuals, bringing my thoughts back to past experiences in places such as the Rwanda genocide memorial, Cambodia genocide memorial, Nagasaki, Pearl Harbor and countless other sites of atrocities of man against man. I could do nothing but ponder the many scenarios being played through my head as to why these people may have died.

When the museum finally opened in the morning hours, and although mostly in Chinese, the images, dates and displays provided me a wealth of knowledge. Known as the 228 incident, two years after the close of WWII, it resulted from a clear cultural barrier between the Taiwanese and the Chinese Nationalist government. The outbreak of violence erupted when a cigarette smuggler was shot dead on February 27, 1947 and the people of Taipei sent out radio messages across the nation calling for protests. These protests led to the execution of thousands of elites by soldiers trying to repress the protests and leading to a long period of Marshall Law and eventual independence from mainland China.

The 228 Peace Park containing the museum and monument remembering not only the move towards independence but the hundreds of lives lost in the wake of the fight for freedom, now stands as a symbol of remembering the past yet forgiveness of those committing such atrocities. It is a symbol to the world that Taiwan is a progressive national not dwelling on the past but focused on the future. It turns bitter hatred into a striving nation!

Beitou Hot Springs

Spas and hot springs have an insurmountably important role in East Asian society, and Taiwan is no exception. Located in northern Taipei is the Datun volcanic mountain range between the Jinshan and the Kanjiao faults giving home to Beitou and its’ famed hot springs. In 1896 the Japanese built their first hot spring spa and in 1913 the construction of the Beitou public baths was completed due to the importance of bathing in Japanese culture. Bathing is not just a hygienic activity but one where an individual can enjoy a relaxing atmosphere, rest, take tea, play games and eat meals.

Generated from the geothermal energy from below the earths’ surface, Beitou offers a wide range of hot springs. Such hot springs include green sulfur springs, white sulfur springs, and iron oxide springs. The public baths provide a range of natural hot spring temperature peaking off at 45^OC or 113^OF. Rising from the baths is a blanket of steam hiding the bluish green waters below. The faint smell of sulfur lingers in the air but it provides world class relaxation.

In the public bathhouse the cost is a mere $1.25 and makes for a nervous yet interesting experience. Stripping down and rinsing off is the first step, then facing the baths full of elderly people making their daily stop. Etiquette of the baths is simply learned via observation. It is imperative that you do not just dip your feet but rather plop right into the scolding water of the hottest bath first. You then move to the cold pools, with a friendly reminder from an avid bather to rinse off the sulfurous water in the showers first. Once in the cold water your muscle tense up and you feel fit as ever. A return to the hot water and repeat, relaxes the muscles, removes all worries from your mind and allows an opportunity of pure relaxation. The Japanese definitely got this one right.

Chiang Kai-shek

Chiang Kai-shek I used to believe was just a famous city somewhere in Asia however the beauty of travelling has once again proved the most educational experience one can have. I quickly learned hours after landing that Chiang Kai-shek was actually a person. Not just any person, but a power house of 20^th century China, whom the wartime leader of The Republic of China would break communist ties with China and become a great leader of Taiwan.

His memorial exists just as other famous leaders’ global memorials are presented on a grand chair as a great bronze statue in the center of the Peace Park, just like the Lincoln Memorial overlooks the reflecting pool. He sits tall on his pedestal overlooking the National Theatre, National Concert Hall and Gate to the Peace Park, all of which exhibit stunning architecture and house Taiwanese culture in its’ grandeur. Atop the footsteps of both the Theatre and Concert Hall the youth of Taiwan practice their dance moves in small groups of ambitious pop dancers blaring their music from boom-boxes.

I arrived with perfect timing as always for the lowering of the Taiwanese flag, the retirement of the guards and the closing of the memorial. The all in white, from head to toe, troops proceeded in a grand march providing the hundreds of onlookers with a display with bayonets drawn and guns twirling. The entire experience from the steps of the memorial left me with a most sensational feeling of warmth and welcoming to a new country!

Changchan Shrine

While on my way exiting Taroko Gorge National Park, it is sometimes ok to be a tourist and stop at the places the tour buses stop. In this case, out of the hundreds of temples I have seen on my travels throughout Asia, this was the most breathtaking. Changchan Shrine or translated as the Eternal Spring Shrine, however just because it is a tourist site does not mean you have to experience it as a tourist.

In the early morning hours I watched bus after bus pull up, take a picture and move on. Some stopped and walked to the temple and back. I decided to ascend the gorge cliffs to Changguang Temple and do my own tour of this spectacle. The temple was a peaceful place with not a single tourist in sight. The arduous uphill hike to Taroko Tower left me drenched in sweat but the chance to view the other side of the gorge where the tour buses were stopping to take pictures. It made me feel proud to know that the hundreds of tourists below would never see or experience this and that I would be a dot in all of their photos.

At Taroko Tower I again was the only person around. Although it overwhelming smelled of rotting larvae paying tribute on the towers steps, the view and the serenity of the gorge was reason enough to stop for lunch in the top of the tower, watching the people below snap pictures, hop on their air conditioned buses and continue on a tour without ever experiencing the sensations of the places they are seeing.

I continued down the now downhill cliff trail towards the Eternal Shrine Temple only stopping once to allow a viper to slowly move across the trail. The temple was completely mesmerizing. With two red, gold, white and blue temples to each side build into the rocks and a majestic waterfall rushing out from the cliffs in the third, center temple, falling into the gorge below. It is a place that seems to connect the earth with the sky and the gods, with a simply indescribable beauty and charm.

Upon returning back to the tourist stop I went from sweaty adventurer to instant fame. Eating a snack on the side of the road waiting for the public bus back to Hualien, tour bus after tour bus pulled up and I conversed with the tour guides and they made me part of the tour. I was the 24 year old world traveler that just hiked descended the cliffs of the gorge. Group after group of little old Chinese tourists asked to take pictures with me, a truly hilarious end to the day!

Taroko Gorge

With no game plan at all I hopped on the first train of the morning to Hualien on the east coast of Taiwan. Upon arrival I sought information on how to get to Taroko Gorge National Park but there was no information to be found. Luckily some very kind people from Beijing were also trying to get to the park without being ripped off by a taxi and helped me break the language barrier and we all headed to the park entrance via the inexpensive public bus.

Upon arrival an overly friendly and excited old park ranger was eager to explain the rock formations of the gorge, show us his pictures of the insects, samples of the wood and more.  It was very warm welcome indeed but could have lasted all day so we were forced to kindly excuse ourselves and begin the short trek through the jungle to get down to the gorge. The others decided to take the tour bus through the gorge while I decided on trekking the 17km to the end, feeling the need to take in all the awe-inspiring sights and sounds of the park.

Impressive sheer rocky cliffs rose high above the rushing blue water of the Liwu River lined by the weaving and winding Central Cross-Island Highway and topped by green jungle. Down the highway only the sound of rushing water slamming against rocks could be heard and every twist and turn of the gorge brought new and inspiring sights. Only the occasional passing of a tour bus or taxi going to the major tourist lookout spots or having to walk extended distances through dark highway tunnels broke the deep connection with nature.

Along the way turquoise pools formed below, birds flew overhead, cascading waterfalls emerged from the jungles and an occasional foot bridge spanned the gapping gorge. Temples and pagodas dotted the misty mountains as butterflies swirled about in the breezy air.  Flowers were in full blossom and the sound of the jungle was the only companion necessary. Upon reaching Tiangxiang at the end of the 17km of gorge I set up my tent at the campsite and was confused as to why I was the only one camping in this simply heavenly place. Exhausted I fell asleep to the sounds of the jungle and watching the flowing river cutting through the gorge from my tent door, an experience simply incomparable to anything else.

WULAI

Located an hour south of Taipei is the tranquil town of Wulai, home of the Atayal indigenous people and where the Nanshi and Tonghou Creeks meet. Rising out from the banks of the creeks are the colorful buildings of this small historic town with lush green jungle in its’ backdrop. Strolling down its’ main streets in the morning rain, as business owners are opening up shop and street vendors are rolling out their carts radiating with lavish smells of fresh food, is a worthwhile experience.

Following down the train tracks leading out of the city is a peaceful one kilometer hike to the impressive Wulai waterfall. Seeming to be spew from the middle of the cliffs comes out a magnificent long white veil of water gracefully falling until breaking onto the rocks below in a thunderous roar. With butterflies whirling around, flowers in bloom and the absence of any other tourists, it makes for a sight of pure tranquility.

Back in town, where the two creeks meet are natural hot springs where the locals come to bath. With its fresh steaming water it is instance relaxation dipping in. This free place of bliss is surrounded by hotels offering pricey spas. Ignoring all the elderly men lounging around in their Speedos for their daily dip, you enter a state of soothing calmness and the only thing to disrupt this mood is a rolling storm from Mother Nature cracking thunder and lightning in the afternoon sky.

To get back to the bus station one needs to continue up a hill to a small yet impressive temple. Providing shelter from the torrential down pouring rain the temple released waves of intense burning incense and the melodious chant of monks. Braving the storm across the long red foot bridge to the other side of the gorge is an invigorating experience and offers one final view of the entire town before the trip back to Taipei.

Tamsui- A Step Back In Time

Nestled at the northern most point of Taipei, at the mouth of the Tamsui River, lays the quaint city of Tamsui. It has all the charm of any port town but mixed in is a colonial feel. The region was once home to the Formosan indigenous tribes however they were unable to escape the far reaching exploration of the Europeans throughout the worlds’ oceans. It didn't take long after reaching the Far East that the Spanish settled in the town in 1629. The Dutch would soon take over in 1641 for the next 20 years and began building a fortress.

Propped on a hill overlooking the river stands Fort San Domingo with its’ bright red bricks escaping typical Asian architecture and being uniquely colonial. The structure was used as the British consulate during the late 19th and 20th centuries and it has spectacular views of the adjacent port town of Bali and its’ lush green mountain in the background. Now a wonderfully preserved building and museum, it offers great insight into the history of not only Tamsui but all of Taiwan.

Further up the hill rests the appropriately named "Little White House." Also a museum today the bright white house surrounded by vibrant flowers and an equally impressive view of the river it stands testiment to the importance of this river location. It served as the customs officer’s residence built by the Chinese in 1862 and later by the Japanese, and is a symbol of the importance of this small port city in global maritime trade.  

Along the riverfront, life changes from a rustic colonial feel to a vivacious Asian port. The boardwalk is lined with fisherman lazily trying to get a catch on one side and a long stretch of local shops, street food vendors, and carnival games on the other. Famous for its’ simple yet tasty fish ball soup, black eggs, and bright spires of ice cream, just relaxing and people watching makes for the perfect way to end your day.