Bibimbap for Buddha

Although almost half of South Korea’s nearly 50,000,000 people do not practice religion, during the week leading up to Buddha’s May 28 birthday in Korea, the country transforms itself. Vibrant lanterns line bustling city streets to secluded mountain trails and everything in between. Even though most students don’t know why, this is also a red holiday and schools are closed making it a joyous celebration all around. The city of Gumi is no different.

Gumi is a large city in the heart of Korea known mainly for producing electronics and is therefore skipped over by most tourists. In the outskirts of Gumi however is the well maintained Guemosan Provincial Park. During this holiday weekend families flocked to the park where tents and BBQ pits were erected by the thousands.

 Even in the early morning hours the main trail just beyond the manmade lake with its gorgeous mountain backdrop was flooded with weekend visitors fully decked out in their lavish hiking equipment. The first stop up the mountain is at Geumosanseong Fortress where a blanket of lanterns hung overhead nearly blocking out the sunlight. A little further up families were picnicking and relaxing below Daehye Falls, whose water modestly flows from the cliffs above in a delicate veil of white.

The Mountain trail cleared out beyond this point as many people turned back, allowing the trail to become decongested and a more peaceful experience. Although the summit of Mt. Geumosan is only 976m it still provides a breath-taking 360⁰ view into the green valleys of the park and the expansive city in the distance. Built into the rocky cliffs overlooking the entire valley is home to Yaksaam Temple. This is the ultimate stop for avid prayers and where bright ribbons flail and lanterns sway in the mountain top breeze.

The descent down the north face of the mountain proved to be an arduous task clearly visible from the total lack of other hikers. The trail sloped steeply downhill and was masked with decaying fall foliage, covered with slick rocks and loose gravel making the trip down a much more reckless journey. The trail eventually leads out to a road to Beopseongsa temple. This miniscule temple lacks in the grandeur that many other temples offer but certainly embodied the essence of the holiday.

The temple workers were diligently hanging lanterns to and fro; others vigorously cleaned the temple grounds, while still others were preparing free lunch for all temple visitors. Exhausted from hiking and dripping with sweat we were invited to sit down in a giant family style hall with other families to enjoy an endlessly delicious and energizing bowl of bibimbap among the tranquil serenity of the temple. Without a word being exchanged the overwhelming sensation or harmony instilled a better understanding of what Buddha’s birthday is really all about.

HAHOE VILLAGE- A Lifestyle Lost

As the Nakdong River winds through the Taebaek Mountains it carves out a gem lost in time; the Hahoe Village. With a circular shape this miniscule village is surrounded by white sandy riverside beaches and isolated from the rest of the city of Andong by a mountainous backdrop. This quaint historic village now consisting of a few hundred people has been the home of the influential Ryu family for over 600 years and now provides a living museum where curious tourists can indulge in a more traditional Korea.

On the other side of the river raises the Buyongdae Cliff, towering above the river and shadowing over the village. There is one rickety wooden motor boat that delivers visitors to and from other sides of the river for a nominal fee. In the hills surrounding the cliffs are several unique pavilions and the Hwacheon Seowon Confucius Academy that stand as testaments to time. While approaching the peak of the cliffs an awe-inspiring view begins to reveal itself. A perfect view across the river down into the small village, its fertile farm land, rolling mountain backdrop and lush green islands dotting the river creates a serene image.

Back across the river one can see and feel a way of life long forgotten be the rapidly industrializing Korean culture. In a pristine and tight knit central community consisting of adobe style housing with straw or tiled roofs, each house separated by stone walls lined with flowers, remains a tranquil and humble lifestyle. It seems ironic that in 1999 Queen Elizabeth II, coming from a well groomed and luxurious lifestyle, visited this modest village and even planted a tree with the assistance of some monks.

Surrounding the village stretches an expanse of perfectly shaped rectangular crops where a variety of agricultural products are provided extremely fertile soil to grow. The rice paddy by themselves provide a unique ecological niche where tadpoles can be seen swimming about in the flooded fields, and graceful white cranes slowly wade through the water looking for a meal. Popping out in the middle of the fields stands a most peculiar farm house - turned gothic church, encircled by scarecrows. Without another living soul in sight it provides the perfect setting for a horror movie.

Upon reaching the end of the farm land, densely forested mountains being to rise up with Mount Hwa as the highest peak separating the village from the nearly 400 year old Confucius academy, Byeongsan Seowon on the other side. Although the mountain surly lacks in height, its infrequent use by visitors allows one to be creative in making your own way through the over grown trails and constantly clearing spider webs off your face. It’s relatively dormant utilization also offers the chance to view Korea’s scarce wild life such as deer and various birds and amphibians.

From the peak of Mount Hwa one gets the opposing view down into the village with Buyongdae Cliff in the background and where tour buses can be seen carting people to and from the village. Upon descent the trail breaks its silence as civilization can once again be heard and where families are found picnicking on the foreground of the temple along the river. The temple although not as grandiose as others, still provides a majestic place to relax, rehydrate, and reflect on the day before the hitchhiking home.