BECOMING ONE

While travelling throughout Europe or Latin America, whether it is in cities or country sides, one will encounter a never ending supply of aesthetic churches and cathedrals.  While meandering through bustling city streets or traversing deserts of Africa and the Middle East one will find a seemingly infinite supply of elaborately beautiful mosques. Central and East Asia are no different in that the major tourist sites consist of dramatic temples, artistically splendid in their nature.                                                                            

Narrow-minded travelers will tell you after you have seen one temple you have seen them all. However a more fervent and vigilant traveler will find each one to be unique and gorgeous in its own entirety. Heinsa is no exception and as one of Korea’s largest temples and is nestled deep in the mountains of Gayasan National Park serving as the home to the Tripitaka Koreana. The best way to truly experience the Buddhist life is by undertaking a temple stay.

The temple stay at Heinsa, although infiltrated by numerous other foreigners looking for the same opportunity, proved to be a real eye opener into a way of life unknown to most. One starts by surrendering your clothing and putting on the clothes of a laymen, similar to a bell boys clothing yet strangely comfortable and pleasing. Then the teachings begin on how to act within the temple, obey the codes of silence, bow correctly, walk diligently and behave as the monks do.

The day ends with the harmonious beating of the drums done with such skill and precision from a first, second and third year monk in rotation.  Followed by this is prayer time in the main temple with the essence of burning candles and the silent serenity of the fast approaching night. A tour around the facility with a kind-hearted and humorous monk truly gave insight into what Buddhism philosophy is rooted in.

The monks of this temple endure a rigorous year of silence and meditation. To truly mediate is to clear ones’ mind of all things past and present and truly live for the moment. To appreciate each breath you take, embrace the sounds of nature that surround you, and to ponder such questions as “Who am I?” To be able to forget about all things past and not think about the future rids yourself from ill though and suffering and allows true enlightenment.

Sleep becomes underappreciated until you wake up at 3am to commence your day with the beating drums whose boisterous sound resonates throughout the surrounding mountains and wakes up the still dreaming wildlife. A silent procession then relocates to the main temple to pray and is followed by prostration. Prostration involves partaking in a grueling 108 submissive bows in order to clear the mind and show respect to all things, primarily oneself. This process is followed directly by mediation in which all thoughts cease to exist in your head as your breathing becomes attuned with your body and the sounds of the encroaching morning.

Upon completion and followed by an early morning mountain hike visiting the quaint life in pristine hermitages, you are left with a better understanding of the universe in which you exist and become one with all things. You become aware of the things within yourself and the things that surround you. One is given a true appreciation for the secret life contained within the confines of the temple walls.

Bibimbap for Buddha

Although almost half of South Korea’s nearly 50,000,000 people do not practice religion, during the week leading up to Buddha’s May 28 birthday in Korea, the country transforms itself. Vibrant lanterns line bustling city streets to secluded mountain trails and everything in between. Even though most students don’t know why, this is also a red holiday and schools are closed making it a joyous celebration all around. The city of Gumi is no different.

Gumi is a large city in the heart of Korea known mainly for producing electronics and is therefore skipped over by most tourists. In the outskirts of Gumi however is the well maintained Guemosan Provincial Park. During this holiday weekend families flocked to the park where tents and BBQ pits were erected by the thousands.

 Even in the early morning hours the main trail just beyond the manmade lake with its gorgeous mountain backdrop was flooded with weekend visitors fully decked out in their lavish hiking equipment. The first stop up the mountain is at Geumosanseong Fortress where a blanket of lanterns hung overhead nearly blocking out the sunlight. A little further up families were picnicking and relaxing below Daehye Falls, whose water modestly flows from the cliffs above in a delicate veil of white.

The Mountain trail cleared out beyond this point as many people turned back, allowing the trail to become decongested and a more peaceful experience. Although the summit of Mt. Geumosan is only 976m it still provides a breath-taking 360⁰ view into the green valleys of the park and the expansive city in the distance. Built into the rocky cliffs overlooking the entire valley is home to Yaksaam Temple. This is the ultimate stop for avid prayers and where bright ribbons flail and lanterns sway in the mountain top breeze.

The descent down the north face of the mountain proved to be an arduous task clearly visible from the total lack of other hikers. The trail sloped steeply downhill and was masked with decaying fall foliage, covered with slick rocks and loose gravel making the trip down a much more reckless journey. The trail eventually leads out to a road to Beopseongsa temple. This miniscule temple lacks in the grandeur that many other temples offer but certainly embodied the essence of the holiday.

The temple workers were diligently hanging lanterns to and fro; others vigorously cleaned the temple grounds, while still others were preparing free lunch for all temple visitors. Exhausted from hiking and dripping with sweat we were invited to sit down in a giant family style hall with other families to enjoy an endlessly delicious and energizing bowl of bibimbap among the tranquil serenity of the temple. Without a word being exchanged the overwhelming sensation or harmony instilled a better understanding of what Buddha’s birthday is really all about.

HAHOE VILLAGE- A Lifestyle Lost

As the Nakdong River winds through the Taebaek Mountains it carves out a gem lost in time; the Hahoe Village. With a circular shape this miniscule village is surrounded by white sandy riverside beaches and isolated from the rest of the city of Andong by a mountainous backdrop. This quaint historic village now consisting of a few hundred people has been the home of the influential Ryu family for over 600 years and now provides a living museum where curious tourists can indulge in a more traditional Korea.

On the other side of the river raises the Buyongdae Cliff, towering above the river and shadowing over the village. There is one rickety wooden motor boat that delivers visitors to and from other sides of the river for a nominal fee. In the hills surrounding the cliffs are several unique pavilions and the Hwacheon Seowon Confucius Academy that stand as testaments to time. While approaching the peak of the cliffs an awe-inspiring view begins to reveal itself. A perfect view across the river down into the small village, its fertile farm land, rolling mountain backdrop and lush green islands dotting the river creates a serene image.

Back across the river one can see and feel a way of life long forgotten be the rapidly industrializing Korean culture. In a pristine and tight knit central community consisting of adobe style housing with straw or tiled roofs, each house separated by stone walls lined with flowers, remains a tranquil and humble lifestyle. It seems ironic that in 1999 Queen Elizabeth II, coming from a well groomed and luxurious lifestyle, visited this modest village and even planted a tree with the assistance of some monks.

Surrounding the village stretches an expanse of perfectly shaped rectangular crops where a variety of agricultural products are provided extremely fertile soil to grow. The rice paddy by themselves provide a unique ecological niche where tadpoles can be seen swimming about in the flooded fields, and graceful white cranes slowly wade through the water looking for a meal. Popping out in the middle of the fields stands a most peculiar farm house - turned gothic church, encircled by scarecrows. Without another living soul in sight it provides the perfect setting for a horror movie.

Upon reaching the end of the farm land, densely forested mountains being to rise up with Mount Hwa as the highest peak separating the village from the nearly 400 year old Confucius academy, Byeongsan Seowon on the other side. Although the mountain surly lacks in height, its infrequent use by visitors allows one to be creative in making your own way through the over grown trails and constantly clearing spider webs off your face. It’s relatively dormant utilization also offers the chance to view Korea’s scarce wild life such as deer and various birds and amphibians.

From the peak of Mount Hwa one gets the opposing view down into the village with Buyongdae Cliff in the background and where tour buses can be seen carting people to and from the village. Upon descent the trail breaks its silence as civilization can once again be heard and where families are found picnicking on the foreground of the temple along the river. The temple although not as grandiose as others, still provides a majestic place to relax, rehydrate, and reflect on the day before the hitchhiking home.

TAIPEI

In the heart of the East China Sea, Taiwan and its’ capital city Taipei offers a blending of cultures including Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Philippine, Malaysian and others to create a vibrant and unique place. Taipei offers an endless selection of informative museums, impressive monuments, architectural wonders, hidden art districts, colorful night markets, peaceful temples, lush parks, lavish hotels and a vast array of other sights, sounds, smells, and tastes to invigorate even the most close-minded traveler.  

Towering over the center of the city is former tallest building in the world, Taipei 101. Overtaken by the Burj Khalifa in Dubai and just days ago by One World Trade Center in New York City, Tapei 101 is still a modern marvel and the gem in the heart of Taipei. It’s unique eight rising segments symbolize abundance, wealth and good fortune, certainly appropriate symbols of the city. The tower can be viewed from all areas of the city however the best is atop nearby Elephant Mountain giving a marvelous 360^O view of the city.

Across the city are numerous museums covering everything from indigenous cultures to dinosaurs and Chinese history. The 228 park presents an excellent National Museum of Science and Natural History and houses impressive collection of dinosaur bones and a contemporary display on global warming. The must-see Grand Palace Museum also offers a luxurious and spacious display of everything from an on lend exhibition from the Louvre to a walk back in time through Chinese history thousands of years ago.

The night life of Taipei is also one of epic proportions. The main attractions are the numerous night markets around the city, most infamous being the Shilin Night Market. The markets serve as vast outdoor shopping malls in tightly packed streets, lined with food vendors selling a wealth of international food from tacos to python soup served with whiskey shots of its blood, urine, semen, scales, saliva and guts. Delicious scents infiltrate the nights’ air as tourists, couples, and locals alike peruse the streets window shopping and snacking while listening to all varieties of international music from Celine Dion and Eminem to K-pop and Salsa blaring from each shop. Interspersed throughout the streets, endless carnival games are also incorporated into this lively scene offering activities for people of all ages.

Taipei is an expansive city with a vibrant culture and endless entertainment. It serves as a melting pot of Asian and global cultures packed with history yet with a façade of a modern city. It’s people are outgoing and open-minded giving rise to its spot on my top list of worldly cities and a place I most certainly seek to visit again.

Maokong Gondola

In the southern most region of Taipei is the infrequently visited yet fascinating Muzha region. With a proper guide, Yu Lee showed me around this spectacular hillside region that leaves the hustle and bustle of the city behind and offers the tranquil serenity of rural Taipei. The first stop on the tour was the well laid out Taipei Zoo, housing expansive beautiful gardens and a massive collection of animals from around the world. From lazy Asiatic bears to koalas lounging in tree tops this zoo has a lot to offer. I even got my first glimpse of a giant panda doing runway model walks for on lookers.

The gondola, although simply a mode of transport for people like Yu who are fortunate enough to be residents in this spectacular place, proved to be a memorizing experience for me. Riding up the mountain in a swinging gondola bound for Maokong at the top, provided views of the lush misty mountains dotted by temples, and was simply breathtaking. At the top we stopped for some amazing food including fried rice, stinky tofu, and gelatinous duck blood as the midday rains commenced.

Maokongs’ lush green rolling hills also lay home to the tea district of Taipei. Quaint little tea shops lay hidden in the rolling hills of an abundance of various tea plants, releasing tantalizing aromas and offering stunning views. The silence of the region offers a perfect place to relax and inspires intellectual conversation.

Further down the mountain nestled in the cliffs is the Zhinan Temple and its’ surrounding palaces giving a grand overview into the valley from its stone steps. The temple is extremely unique in its’ indoor design with night stars on the ceiling, fluffy clouds projecting from the walls to meet the night sky, and lined with hundreds of gold statues of individuals that bring luck to people born in every month of every year. One of the surrounding palaces offers locals and travelers alike a place to stop for coffee and tea with delicious side snacks including garlic fried lima beans all for free.  It made for perfect place to wind down and end a magnificent day.

228

History can be learned through textbooks that are often times bias, however history is culture, and with culture being an overall performance of life it can best be learned while living somewhere. This was the case for Taiwan a country I knew little about yet gained a plethora of knowledge about in only a short stay. 228 Peace Park was the perfect place for such a journey through time.

Outside the 228 museum were transparent photos of hundreds of slain individuals, bringing my thoughts back to past experiences in places such as the Rwanda genocide memorial, Cambodia genocide memorial, Nagasaki, Pearl Harbor and countless other sites of atrocities of man against man. I could do nothing but ponder the many scenarios being played through my head as to why these people may have died.

When the museum finally opened in the morning hours, and although mostly in Chinese, the images, dates and displays provided me a wealth of knowledge. Known as the 228 incident, two years after the close of WWII, it resulted from a clear cultural barrier between the Taiwanese and the Chinese Nationalist government. The outbreak of violence erupted when a cigarette smuggler was shot dead on February 27, 1947 and the people of Taipei sent out radio messages across the nation calling for protests. These protests led to the execution of thousands of elites by soldiers trying to repress the protests and leading to a long period of Marshall Law and eventual independence from mainland China.

The 228 Peace Park containing the museum and monument remembering not only the move towards independence but the hundreds of lives lost in the wake of the fight for freedom, now stands as a symbol of remembering the past yet forgiveness of those committing such atrocities. It is a symbol to the world that Taiwan is a progressive national not dwelling on the past but focused on the future. It turns bitter hatred into a striving nation!

Beitou Hot Springs

Spas and hot springs have an insurmountably important role in East Asian society, and Taiwan is no exception. Located in northern Taipei is the Datun volcanic mountain range between the Jinshan and the Kanjiao faults giving home to Beitou and its’ famed hot springs. In 1896 the Japanese built their first hot spring spa and in 1913 the construction of the Beitou public baths was completed due to the importance of bathing in Japanese culture. Bathing is not just a hygienic activity but one where an individual can enjoy a relaxing atmosphere, rest, take tea, play games and eat meals.

Generated from the geothermal energy from below the earths’ surface, Beitou offers a wide range of hot springs. Such hot springs include green sulfur springs, white sulfur springs, and iron oxide springs. The public baths provide a range of natural hot spring temperature peaking off at 45^OC or 113^OF. Rising from the baths is a blanket of steam hiding the bluish green waters below. The faint smell of sulfur lingers in the air but it provides world class relaxation.

In the public bathhouse the cost is a mere $1.25 and makes for a nervous yet interesting experience. Stripping down and rinsing off is the first step, then facing the baths full of elderly people making their daily stop. Etiquette of the baths is simply learned via observation. It is imperative that you do not just dip your feet but rather plop right into the scolding water of the hottest bath first. You then move to the cold pools, with a friendly reminder from an avid bather to rinse off the sulfurous water in the showers first. Once in the cold water your muscle tense up and you feel fit as ever. A return to the hot water and repeat, relaxes the muscles, removes all worries from your mind and allows an opportunity of pure relaxation. The Japanese definitely got this one right.