Geumjeong Fortress Trail to Beomeo-sa

From Nummun, the South Gate, of the Geumjeong Fortress wall begins a calming 8.8 km hike to Bukmun, the North Gate in the mountains engulfing Busan. In the early morning hours, the hike began on a paved trail with few people moving about in a peaceable silence. Upon arrival to the East Gate, Jeff and I were invited in the ranger post by the park ranger and his brother for some coffee. We sat in the shack as they tried to teach us Korean and Mandarin along with some interesting conversation. Eventually we had to excuse ourselves from their hospitality and continue on with the map and directions they provided.

The trail left the main road and we began weaving uphill through the forest alongside a trail parallel to the old stone fortress wall with blooming spring flowers flooding the hills. With limited trail signs we appeared as total tourists looking at our map, so an older Korean man hiking as well told us to follow him. He served as an excellent guide explaining to us the history of the fortress and temples as well as pointing out plants and flowers, teaching us their Korean names.

Upon arriving to the mountain ridge rolling hills of golden grass swayed in the wind and in the distance valleys full of communist style block buildings with the Sea of Japan in the distance on either side made a seemingly perfect backdrop.  The stone wall could be seen from the top of Mount Wonhyobong slithered through the valleys like a serpent all to the peak of Mount Euisangbong, resembling a much smaller but still aesthetic, Great Wall of China.

From the North Gate on the other side of Mount Wonhyobong began a winding stone trail down the north side of the mountain towards Beomeo-sa Temple; or the ‘Heavenly fish temple.’ The volume of hikers in their brightly shining and only for show hiking gear increased exponentially. Their backpacks were clinging with the sound of soju bottles, a typical hiking sound in Korea.

Even with the large crowds of people the sound of trickling streams down the rocks coupled with the budding spring trees created a brilliant sensation.

Walking through the village outside of Beomeo-sa we once again found ourselves as the only tourists with a few silent monks moving about from temple to temple. Beomeo-sa was an impressively large complex of over 27 separate buildings with a history dating back over 1335 years ago. Although it was burned down several times through the centuries, it still invokes a sense of wonder, especially looking at the relatively short history of the USA.

Although the temple was lacking in as much grandeur and beauty as other temples visited, it was still a worthwhile hike through the mountains to a place of pure serenity and historical value. Although South Korea might be a small country, even after two years living here there are still many new marvels that continue to be experienced inspiring new adventures.