Seokbulsa Temple

Not much compares with waking up long before the sun makes its daily trek across the sky than beginning an adventure on a rainy weekday. Aboard the first subway of the morning the few moving souls are in a zombie like state with nothing but the sound of the train dragging their lifeless bodies to their destinations. With the sun still not up, boarding a long distance bus also lacks any sign of life as everyone tried to catch up on an hours sleep. I myself could not help but gaze through the windows at the mountains veiled in fog appearing like shadowy giants in the predawn light.

Upon arrival, grumpy people began to move about as my body twitched with excitement. With two of my friends we began to walk across Pusan in the morning rain as the sun began to rise in the sky. Although dark and gloomy the trees blossoming with flowers and the first signs of life in waking city were truly an experience, as we walked to the cable car to bring us up the mountain.

Waiting for the cable car to begin operation the silence of the mountains with birds beginning to stir about is a feeling of pure tranquility. As the three of us were finally able to board the cable car we began our ascent and almost instantly all visibility was lost and we were engulfed in the low lying cloud cover. Eventually we emerged from the clouds and were given a breath-taking view of the city far below with its’ typical Korean communist style white block buildings almost like camouflage amongst the clouds.

When we got to the top we began going immediately through the muddy trails towards Seokbul-sa Temple. Being the only ones on the trail the peaceful hike to the South Gate of Geumjeong Fortress left us in conversational solitude. Winding around the mountains the clouds blocked all views but for seconds at a time would roll away leaving us with spectacular views of the granite mountains and valleys below.

The trail eventually began a steep downward course through the mud and slick rocks. Wild pheasants moved about as we slowly slid our way down the trail. It wasn’t long before we could hear the drums and chants of Buddhist prayers coming from the temple for us to follow. Through the clouds we emerged onto a path entering the opened and welcoming gates of the temple, with golden footprints of Buddha on each door.

As we walked through the gates we were still the only people in sight. The seemingly empty and cloud covered temple radiated an eerie yet soothing calmness at the same time. Turning up the stairs a most magical sight began to reveal itself little by little each step of the way.

 Within a miniscule canyon hidden behind the temple were massive stone grottos of figurines carved into the rocks on each side, standing about two stories tall each. On the central alter was a statue of a goddess standing eloquently in front of an overhanging rock with Buddha carved in over head. To each side was a set of stone steps rising up into the clouds with carvings moving up along the sides. The detail in which these were carved and there extraordinary placement was absolutely magnificent. It was a truly serene place that fills your heart with mysterious awe and sense of peace.