Bibimbap for Buddha

Although almost half of South Korea’s nearly 50,000,000 people do not practice religion, during the week leading up to Buddha’s May 28 birthday in Korea, the country transforms itself. Vibrant lanterns line bustling city streets to secluded mountain trails and everything in between. Even though most students don’t know why, this is also a red holiday and schools are closed making it a joyous celebration all around. The city of Gumi is no different.

Gumi is a large city in the heart of Korea known mainly for producing electronics and is therefore skipped over by most tourists. In the outskirts of Gumi however is the well maintained Guemosan Provincial Park. During this holiday weekend families flocked to the park where tents and BBQ pits were erected by the thousands.

 Even in the early morning hours the main trail just beyond the manmade lake with its gorgeous mountain backdrop was flooded with weekend visitors fully decked out in their lavish hiking equipment. The first stop up the mountain is at Geumosanseong Fortress where a blanket of lanterns hung overhead nearly blocking out the sunlight. A little further up families were picnicking and relaxing below Daehye Falls, whose water modestly flows from the cliffs above in a delicate veil of white.

The Mountain trail cleared out beyond this point as many people turned back, allowing the trail to become decongested and a more peaceful experience. Although the summit of Mt. Geumosan is only 976m it still provides a breath-taking 360⁰ view into the green valleys of the park and the expansive city in the distance. Built into the rocky cliffs overlooking the entire valley is home to Yaksaam Temple. This is the ultimate stop for avid prayers and where bright ribbons flail and lanterns sway in the mountain top breeze.

The descent down the north face of the mountain proved to be an arduous task clearly visible from the total lack of other hikers. The trail sloped steeply downhill and was masked with decaying fall foliage, covered with slick rocks and loose gravel making the trip down a much more reckless journey. The trail eventually leads out to a road to Beopseongsa temple. This miniscule temple lacks in the grandeur that many other temples offer but certainly embodied the essence of the holiday.

The temple workers were diligently hanging lanterns to and fro; others vigorously cleaned the temple grounds, while still others were preparing free lunch for all temple visitors. Exhausted from hiking and dripping with sweat we were invited to sit down in a giant family style hall with other families to enjoy an endlessly delicious and energizing bowl of bibimbap among the tranquil serenity of the temple. Without a word being exchanged the overwhelming sensation or harmony instilled a better understanding of what Buddha’s birthday is really all about.