While travelling throughout Europe or Latin America, whether
it is in cities or country sides, one will encounter a never ending supply of
aesthetic churches and cathedrals. While
meandering through bustling city streets or traversing deserts of Africa and
the Middle East one will find a seemingly infinite supply of elaborately
beautiful mosques. Central and East Asia are no different in that the major
tourist sites consist of dramatic temples, artistically splendid in their nature.
Narrow-minded travelers will tell you after you have seen
one temple you have seen them all. However a more fervent and vigilant traveler
will find each one to be unique and gorgeous in its own entirety. Heinsa is no
exception and as one of Korea’s largest temples and is nestled deep in the
mountains of Gayasan National Park serving as the home to the Tripitaka
Koreana. The best way to truly experience the Buddhist life is by undertaking a
temple stay.
The temple stay at Heinsa, although infiltrated by numerous
other foreigners looking for the same opportunity, proved to be a real eye
opener into a way of life unknown to most. One starts by surrendering your
clothing and putting on the clothes of a laymen, similar to a bell boys
clothing yet strangely comfortable and pleasing. Then the teachings begin on
how to act within the temple, obey the codes of silence, bow correctly, walk
diligently and behave as the monks do.
The day ends with the harmonious beating of the drums done with such skill and precision from a first, second and third year monk in rotation. Followed by this is prayer time in the main temple with the essence of burning candles and the silent serenity of the fast approaching night. A tour around the facility with a kind-hearted and humorous monk truly gave insight into what Buddhism philosophy is rooted in.
The monks of this temple endure a rigorous year of silence
and meditation. To truly mediate is to clear ones’ mind of all things past and
present and truly live for the moment. To appreciate each breath you take,
embrace the sounds of nature that surround you, and to ponder such questions as
“Who am I?” To be able to forget about all things past and not think about the
future rids yourself from ill though and suffering and allows true enlightenment.
Sleep becomes underappreciated until you wake up at 3am to
commence your day with the beating drums whose boisterous sound resonates throughout
the surrounding mountains and wakes up the still dreaming wildlife. A silent
procession then relocates to the main temple to pray and is followed by
prostration. Prostration involves partaking in a grueling 108 submissive bows
in order to clear the mind and show respect to all things, primarily oneself.
This process is followed directly by mediation in which all thoughts cease to exist
in your head as your breathing becomes attuned with your body and the sounds of
the encroaching morning.
Upon completion and followed by an early morning mountain
hike visiting the quaint life in pristine hermitages, you are left with a better understanding of the universe in which you
exist and become one with all things. You become aware of the things within
yourself and the things that surround you. One is given a true appreciation for
the secret life contained within the confines of the temple walls.
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